Hiking the Askja Trail – A 5-Day Adventure Across Iceland’s Remote Highlands
The Askja Trail in Iceland’s Highlands is a challenging, remote, and unforgettable trek. This 120 km route from Herðubreiðarlindir to Mývatn takes you across lava fields, volcanic craters, ash deserts, and snow-covered cols. Over five days and four nights, we carried all our camping gear and rations, testing our endurance and rewarding us with some of the most otherworldly landscapes we’ve ever seen.
We chose the Askja Trail because it promised solitude, and it delivered — we didn’t see a single other hiker the entire way. If you’re seeking a quiet, self-supported adventure far from the tourist crowds, this is it.
Planning and Preparation for the Askja Trail
The Askja Trail is typically completed in five days. It can be done hut-to-hut, but we chose to wild camp to keep the experience as remote as possible (though this did mean heavier packs). Huts in Iceland can be expensive, and some require pre-booking, so factor this into your plans.
The trail is marked with posts between huts, but some markers are missing or damaged. We navigated with a GPS, map, and compass. Phone signal varied from 4G to no service at all for days. Water sources are limited, so carrying extra was essential.
Our packs were heavier than usual, not only from food and camping equipment, but also from a 4-season tent to handle any harsh weather Iceland could throw at us.
Day 1 – Herdubreidarlindir to Brædrafell Hut
Distance: 19 km | Ascent: 430 m | Time: 9 hours
Weather: Dry, with rain and wind in the evening
After a two-hour ride with Mývatn Tours, complete with a geology and history talk from the guide, we arrived at our start point around 11 a.m. The warden at Herdubreidarlindir introduced us to Iceland’s SafeTravel app before we set off.
The day took us around Herðubreið, Iceland’s “Queen of the Mountains,” over vast lava fields. The formations were incredible, but movement was slow and technical underfoot. By the time we reached Brædrafell Hut, we hadn’t seen a single river. Luckily, rainwater tanks provided enough for cooking and drinking. Pitching the tent proved tricky — the ground was too hard for pegs, so we anchored it with lava rocks.
Day 2 – Brædrafell Hut to Drekagil Hut
Distance: 22 km | Ascent: 440 m | Time: 9.5 hours
Weather: Cloudy, dry, wind easing
We woke surrounded by a field of black lava. The first few kilometres along a dirt track felt fast compared to the slow lava fields. But soon, we were back navigating uneven terrain. At one point, Andy hit a wall mentally — the scenery felt like déjà vu from Day 1 — so we stopped for food to reset our mood.
Reaching Drekagil Hut felt like arriving at an oasis. For the first time on the trek, we saw a river and real signs of life. The hut warden welcomed us and, to our delight, told us there was a small café serving tea and waffles. After pitching the tent at record speed, we devoured our freeze-dried meal before treating ourselves to waffles and hot chocolate — a morale-boosting end to the day.
Day 3 – Drekagil Hut to Dyngjufjoll Hut via Askja Caldera
Distance: 26 km | Ascent: 1,028 m | Time: 14 hours
Weather: Intermittent sun and clouds
This was the day we had been waiting for — the heart of the Askja Trail. A sandy ascent led us to a col at 1,350 m, revealing our first view into the Askja Caldera and its snow-capped peaks. We descended into the volcanic basin, passing steaming ground stained yellow with sulphur, before reaching Víti Crater, a milky-blue pool with a sharp sulphur smell. Once used as a hot spring, its waters are now too acidic for bathing.
We stopped briefly at the main lake, Öskjuvatn, where Rachel attempted a swim in the icy water before admitting defeat. With 15 km still to go, we climbed out of the caldera and crossed the most unstable lava field yet. Here, Rachel took a fall, bruising herself and snapping a trekking pole — our first casualty of the trip.
The final push was across 10 km of unconsolidated snow, a stark contrast to the ash and lava earlier in the day. Reaching Dyngjufjoll Hut, we discovered the nearby river was dry, but thankfully the hut had a water supply.
Day 4 – Dyngjufjoll Hut to Wild Camp in the Highlands
Distance: 28 km | Ascent: 133 m | Time: 12 hours
Weather: Sunny
We’ll always remember this as “the long desert day.” Thirteen kilometres of walking through a black ash desert with little to look at pushed Rachel to her first major tantrum of the trip. Andy’s phone died shortly after, becoming the second casualty of the hike.
The monotony finally broke as the track wound into greener terrain. After an evening meal outside a hut with beautiful river views, we pressed on to shorten the final day, eventually finding a peaceful wild camp spot among mossy ground.
Day 5 – Wild Camp to Mývatn
Distance: 32 km | Ascent: 130 m | Time: 12 hours
Weather: Sunny, light wind
The earliest start of the trek — 4 a.m. — driven by the promise of pizza in Mývatn. The day began easily enough until a deep river crossing soaked our feet, leading to sore spots later. The scenery turned greener as we approached civilisation, but our legs grew heavier.
Finally, Mývatn Lake came into view. The last 1.6 km to the end point felt like the longest of the entire trail. But we’d done it — the Askja Trail was complete. All that remained was a final 9 km walk to the campsite (and that pizza), which we happily shortened by flagging down a taxi.
Final Thoughts on the Askja Trail
Andy: “I enjoyed the hike, but it wasn’t what I expected. The vast, open landscapes were a mental challenge for me.”
Rachel: “I loved the variety of geology, especially the lava fields and volcanic features. Day 3 was everything I hoped for.”
Would we do it again? Possibly — but maybe we’d skip Day 4’s desert stretch. If you’re prepared for the remoteness, self-sufficiency, and mental challenges of walking through Iceland’s otherworldly Highlands, the Askja Trail is an unforgettable adventure.
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